3/30/2007

Summer Robes (natsu goromo)

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Summer robes, summer clothing (natsugoromo)

***** Location: Japan
***** Season: Summer
***** Category: Humanity


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Explanation

At the beginning of summer it is time to
change the robes, koromogae 更衣 ころもがえ

In modern Japan, western clothing is becoming more and more common and the traditional Japanese robes, as described below, are not worn so much any more in the big cities. In the countryside, where I live, some are still quite common.
It used to be the first day of the fourth lunar month, but now it has come to be done on the first of June.


BTW
there is another time for koromogae in autumn, when summer robes are put away and the winter robes are coming out:

nochi no koromogae 後の更衣 (のちのころもがえ)
"the later changing of robes"
kigo for early winter
It was the first day of the tenth month, now often given as the first of october.


changing cloths for the winter season
. Warm things for Winter .

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white layered robe, shiragasane 白重, 白襲
..... white robe, shira-e, shira e 白衣(しらえ)


one layer of robes, hito-e, hito e 単衣 ひとえ

summer robes, natsuginu 夏衣(なつぎぬ), natsugi 夏着(なつぎ), natsumono夏物(なつもの)

hemp robes, asafuku 麻服(あさふく)
They are especially light and cool in summer, although nowadays, they are quite expensive.

light lined kimono, awase 袷 あわせ , natsu awase 初袷(はつあわせ), suawase 素袷(すあわせ), watanuki 綿抜(わたぬき)
old lined kimono, furuawase 古袷(ふるあわせ)


katabira 帷子 かたびら unlined (linen) kimono
shirokatabira 白帷子(しろかたびら)white linen kimono
somekatabira 染帷子(そめかたびら)dyed linen kimono
kibira 黄帷子(きびら)yellow linen kimono
ekatabira 絵帷子(えかたびら)lined kimono with patterns

tsujigahana, tsuji ga hana 辻が花(つじがはな)
. . . CLICK here for tsujigahana Photos !
late summer
What is Tsujigahana?
source : www.tsujigahana.com



thin robes, thin kimono , usumono 羅 うすもの
usuginu 薄衣(うすぎぬ), usugoromo 薄ごろも(うすごろも)
silk gauze, ro 絽(ろ), sha 紗(しゃ)
"transparent robe", sukiya 透綾(すきや)
light cloth robe, joofu 上布(じょうふ), ryoora 綾羅(りょうら), keira 軽羅(けいら)、

CLICK for more photos !
silk crepe, made in Akashi town (near Kobe)
akashi 明石(あかし)

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joofu 上布 (じょうふ) finely woven summer cloth robes
Echigo joofu 越後上布(えちごじょうふ)from Echigo
. . . CLICK here for Photos !
Satsuma joofu 薩摩上布(さつまじょうふ) from Satsuma
. . . CLICK here for Photos !


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kinuno 生布 (きぬの) raw cloth (not washed after weaving)
made from various materials. It feels quite cool in summer.
kibira 生平(きびら)、kuzufu 葛布(くずふ)"kuzu cloth"
sayomi 貲布(さよみ), tafu 太布(たふ)"heavy cloth"
saimi 細布(さいみ)、asabu 麻布(あさふ)"hemp cloth"
fujifu 藤布(ふじふ)wisteria cloth
kinuno 木布(きぬの) "tree cloth"

bashoofu 芭蕉布(ばしょうふ) "banana fiber cloth"
Basho-fu, bashofu is one of the representative textiles of Okinawa.
. . . CLICK here for Photos !


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light cotton robes, yukata 浴衣 ゆかた
Yukata is a Japanese summer garment. People wearing yukata are a common sight at fireworks displays, bon-odori festivals, and other summer events. The yukata is a casual form of kimono that is also frequently worn after bathing at traditional Japanese inns. Though their use is not limited to after-bath wear, yukata literally means bath(ing) clothes.
© More in the WIKIPEDIA !

first wearing of the summer yukata, hatsu yukata 初浴衣(はつゆかた)
indigo yukata, ai yukata 藍浴衣(あいゆかた)
starched yukata, nori yukata 糊浴衣(のりゆかた)
yukata for retn, kashi yukata 貸浴衣(かしゆかた)
old yukata, furuyukata 古浴衣(ふるゆかた)
cotton robe after a bath, yu katabira 湯帷子(ゆかたびら)
pole to hang a yukata, yukatagake 浴衣掛(ゆかたがけ)


© Chöpa Imports, 2006 :Yukata Robe-Haiku

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bleached cloths, sarashi 晒布 さらし
Nara sarashi 奈良晒(ならざらし)
river for bleaching cloths, sarashigawa 晒川(さらしがわ)
time for bleaching cloths, sarashidoki 晒時(さらしどき), sarashi 晒(さらし)
Click HERE for photos of Nara sarashi


shrinked cloths, chijimifu 縮布 ちぢみふ
chijimi 縮(ちぢみ), shima chijimi 縞縮(しまちぢみ)
shrinked cotton, chijimimen 縮木綿(ちぢみもめん)
shrinked cloth robe for summer, chijimi katabira 縮帷子(ちぢみかたびら)
shrinked cloth from Echigo, Echigo chijimi 越後縮(えちごちぢみ)
shrinked cloth from Akashi, Akashi chijimi 明石縮(あかしちぢみ)

Click HERE for photos of shrinked cloth from Echigo

Click HERE for shrinked cloth from Akashi


. . . Summer sash (natsu obi, natsuobi, natsu-obi)


cotton flannel, neru ネル



neckband for summer, natsueri, natsu eri 夏襟 (なつえり)
This was used under a kimono and could be washed easily.
Sommerkragen, Kragen



haraate, hara ate 腹当 (はらあて) stomach [belly] wrapper
..... haragake 腹掛(はらがけ)
nebie shirazu 寝冷知らず(ねびえしらず)
This was used when sleeping to prevent getting cold with sweat, especially for children.


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越後屋に衣さく音や衣更
Echigoya ni kinu saku oto ya koromogae

at the Echigoya shop
the sound of cutting cloth -
changing the robes


Enomoto Kikaku Takarai 宝井其角


. Echigoya 越後屋 and Mitsui 三井 .

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CLICK for more photos !

short, light summer coat, natsubaori
夏羽織 (なつばおり )

one layer coat, hitoebaori 単羽織(ひとえばおり)
thin coat, usubaori 薄羽織(うすばおり)
hemp coat, asabaori 麻羽織(あさばおり)
silk gauze coat, robaori 絽羽織(ろばおり)


HAORI 羽織 is the general term for a coat worn over a Japanese kimono. In combinations it is often spelled ... baori.


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kihgoza 着茣蓙 (きござ) goza mat to wear
Often used by travellers of old to protect them from the sunshine.
Goza floor mats


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summer trouser-skirt, natsubakama 夏袴 (なつばかま)
silk gauze trouser-skirt, robakama 絽袴(ろばかま)
hemp trouser skirt, asabakama 麻袴(あさばかま)
Formal trouser-skirt (hakama) and Haiku

HAKAMA 袴 is the general term for a formal trouser-skirt worn over a Japanese kimono. In combinations it is often spelled ... bakama.


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light summer suit with short legs, jinbei
甚平 (じんべい), jinbee 甚兵衛(じんべえ), jinbeじんべ

CLICK for more photos !

They are very comfortable and many men wear them after the nightly bath to sit outside and enjoy the evening cool. They are usually made of cotton or hemp.

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half-long trousers, han zubon 半ズボン (はんずぼん)
short trousers, shooto pantsu, ショートパンツ
shorts, shootsu ショーツ


summer shirt, natsu shatsu 夏シャツ (なつしゃつ)
white shirt, shiro shatsu 白シャツ(しろしゃつ)
net shirt, ami shatsu 網シャツ(あみしゃつ)
crepe shirt, kureepu shatsu クレープシャツ


shirt with an open collar, kaikin shatsu
開襟シャツ (かいきんしゃつ)

open collar, kaikin 開襟(かいきん)


aloha shirt, aroha shatsu アロハシャツ (あろはしゃつ) PHOTOS !
aloha (shirt), aroha アロハ


summer dress, samaa doresu サマードレス
"sun dress", san doresu サンドレス
summer coat, samaa kooto サマーコート
summer wear, samaa wea サマーウェア

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white clothing, shirofuku 白服 しろふく
hakusoo 白装(はくそう)


CLICK for more photos !
white clothing with splashed patterns
shirogasuri 白絣 しろがすり. 白飛白(しろがすり)
"white material", shiroji 白地(しろじ)

KASURI 絣, ikat, splashed patterns (...gasuri) come in typical dyeing and weaving patterns of some areas of Japanese.
Ikat patterns and Daruma san


lace, reesu レース
making lace, reesu amu レース編む(れーすあむ)

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net-like under-kimono, ami juban
網襦袢 (あみじゅばん)

Kimono, Yukata, Nagajuban and more
着物、浴衣、長襦袢 with DARUMA patterns


CLICK for more photos !
juban, worn under a kimono


"sweat catcher", asetori 汗袗 (あせとり)
..... asetori 汗取(あせとり)

made from twisted paper, koyori juban
紙縒襦袢(こよりじゅばん)

made from gauze, gaaze juban ガーゼ襦袢(がーぜじゅばん)
made from a thin bamboo pipe, kuda juban 管襦袢(くだじゅばん)
bamboo under-garment, take juban 竹襦袢(たけじゅばん)

Bamboo Wife (chiku fujin)
.. a device to spend a hot night and other bamboo tools for summer

Woven bamboo under-garments are often worn by priests to protect the precious silk garments worn on official occasions.



CLICK for more photos !
loose underpants for men, suteteko, すててこ
Usually they go just over the knee, are made of thin cotton or gauze and can be washed easily.
Many farmers in our area wear them in the evening with no other cloths on top of them. They are extremely comfortable in the humid Japanese summer.


light underwear, appappa あっぱっぱ
"simple clothing", kantan fuku 簡単服 かんたんふく


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bathing suit, mizugi 水着(みずぎ)
"sea water suit", kaisui gi 海水着 (かいすいぎ)
"sea water hat", beach hat, kaisui boo
海水帽(かいすいぼう)



sangurasu サングラス sunglasses



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The mummy of the famous priest Kobo Daishi at the mountain monastery Koya San is also dressed twice a year.

changing of his robes, mi-koromogae 御衣替,
o-koromo-i 御衣井

Kukai Kobo Daishi and Kigo for Haiku



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Worldwide use


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Things found on the way



Court Ladies 02
Photo curtesy of Terry Steudlein, May 2008

© DIARIES OF
COURT LADIES OF OLD JAPAN



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Kimono Saijiki 着物歳時記 Kimono for all seasons



きもの歳時記
source : www.amazon.co.jp



A BLOG with seasonal hints:
きもの歳時記
source : mitu-naka


Notes for each month :
source : www.kimono-shop.co.jp


Textile Dyeing Patterns No 4
Kyoto Shoin (Author)
source : www.amazon.com/


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HAIKU





夏衣 いまだ虱を とりつくさず
natsugoromo imada shirami o tori tsukusazu

my summer robe
there are still some lice
I have not caught


Matsuo Basho
1685, End of fourth lunar month 貞亨2年4月下旬

Basho had just ended a very satisfying travel and was thus in a playful mood (karumi 軽み).

Read more from Makoto Ueda and
source : Basho and His Interpreters


summer robes:
still some lice
I've yet to pick

Tr. Barnhill

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ひとつ脱てうしろにおひぬ衣かへ
一つ脱いで後に負ひぬ衣更
hitotsu nugite ushiro ni oinu koromogae

taking off one garment
I sling it over my shoulder
clothes changing day


Along the Nakasendo, 17. Sakamoto-shuku 坂本宿


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source :lucky2zacky.jugem.jp
yukatabira of the Heian period 平安時代の湯帷子
. . . yukata



紫陽花や帷子時の薄浅黄
ajisai ya katabira doki no usu-asagi

these hydrangeas -
time for a linen kimono
in light blue


MORE - Ajisai haiku by
. Matsuo Basho 松尾芭蕉 - Archives of the WKD .


. asagi あさぎ - 浅黄 - 浅葱 hues of light yellow, green and blue .


- - - - - - - - - -

いでや我よき布着たり蝉衣
ide ya ware yoki nuno kitari semi-goromo

come look at
the fine summer robe I wear -
my Semigoromo

Tr. Gabi Greve

Written in summer of 1687 貞亨4年夏
Sugiyama Sanpu had sent Basho a new katabira robe for summer and this was his thank-you hokku.



semigoromo 蝉衣 a very thin silk cloth for summer robes, as light as the wings of a cicada.
lit. "cicada robe".

This hokku has the cut marker YA in the middle of line 1.


MORE - hokku about the haori and natsu-baori coats by
. Matsuo Basho 松尾芭蕉 - Archives of the WKD .


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Issa about the changing of the robes

.更衣松風聞に出たりけり
koromogae matsu kaze kiki ni detari keri

new summer robes--
listening to the pine breeze
they emerge




更衣しばししらみを忘れたり
koromogae shibashi shirami o wasuretari

a new summer robe--
for a little while
no lice




痩藪も窓も月さすころもがへ
yase yabu mo mado mo tsuki sasu koromogae

in thin trees, in my window
bright moon...
new summer robes

Tr. David Lanoue
More haiku with : koromogae




Haiga by Nakamura Sakuo !

糊こはき帷子かぶる昼寝哉
nori kowaki katabira kaburu hirune kana

his starched summer
robe his blanket...
siesta


Katabira refers to a light summer garment made of hemp. The napper is either wearing the garment or using it as a cover. For my translation, I picked the latter. An alternate version: wearing his starched summer robe... siesta

David Lanoue

CLICK for more KATABIRA
Festival Katabira

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The thin legs of Issa
(click on the photo to read the haiku and
enjoy the haiga by Sakuo Nakamura)




痩脛の毛に微風あり衣更
yasezune no ke ni bifuu ari koromogae

the hair of my thin legs
moves in the light breeze -
changing of the robes


Yosa Buson


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夏羽織 われをはなれて 飛ばんとす
natsubaori ware o hanarete toban to su

my summer coat -
it wants to leave me
and fly away


Masaoka Shiki 正岡 子規
Tr. Gabi Greve

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単衣着て 風よろこべば 風まとふ
hitoe kite kaze yorokobeba kaze matou

I wear a thin summer robe -
I enjoy the wind
I wear the wind


or

wearing a thin robe -
if the wind is pleased with it
I wear the wind


Nakamura Teijo 中村 汀女
Tr. Gabi Greve


dressed in a summer robe
the pleasant breeze
wraps me up

Tr. Keiko Izawa

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甚平着て 饅頭笠着て 土佐の人
jinbei kite manjugasa kite Tosa no hito

wearing a jinbei
wearing a round straw hat
a man from Tosa


or

I wear a jinbei
I wear a round straw hat
(like) a man from Tosa


Takahama Toshio 高浜 年尾
(Son of Takahama Kyoshi)

CLICK for more information about Japanese straw hats and haiku !
"Round straw hat like a rice dumpling", manjugasa

Tosa, a province in Shikoku

Tr. Gabi Greve

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Related words

***** Warm clothing and robes for Winter

***** Japanese Kimono and Haiku

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.SAIJIKI ... HUMANITY
Kigo for Summer
 



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7 comments:

sakuo said...

着物はぜんぜん着なくなりました。
最近は寝巻きもパジャマです。
女の人の着物姿は好きですが、これも見かけません。
結婚以来、箪笥一杯の着物を妻が着たのを見たことがありません。

日本人を忘れそうです。

sakuo

Anonymous said...


putting away
my clothes in spring . . .
thoughts of winter


Bill K

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/WHCworkshop/message/59644

Gabi Greve said...

putting on
the summer kimono...
a perfect square!

katabira o masshikaku ni zo kitari keri
帷を真四角にぞきたりけり


by Issa, 1813

The light summer garment in question is made of hemp: katabira. In this archive, I translate both katabira and awase as "summer kimono."
In this haiku (and in another of the same year, 1813) Issa notes the
geometrical squareness of the kimono.

Tr. David Lanoue
http://cat.xula.edu/issa/

Gabi Greve said...

winter's end -
my warm socks
with big holes


Gabi Greve, 2009

Anonymous said...

i like the traditional Japanese Cotton Bathrobes still. they are looking very gorgeous and marvelous..
maddy

Gabi Greve - Basho archives said...

Matsuo Basho

別れ端や笠手に提げて夏羽織
wakareba ya kasa te ni sagete natsu-baori

time to say good bye -
the traveller's hat in my hand
and my summer coat on
Tr. Gabi Greve


Written about 1684 貞亨元年, Basho age 41 or later

Some explain this as Basho taking leave of his summer robe and friends at the same time. The season would then be early autumn.
It could also be the "change of robes" for summer robes on the first day of the fourth lunar month, thus a kigo for summer, and Basho would be taking leave of his warm winter coat, getting ready for a journey in summer.


. Matsuo Basho 松尾芭蕉 - Archives of the WKD .

Gabi Greve - Issa said...

Kobayashi Issa

でも坊主でも入道のころもがえ
demo boozu demo nyoodoo no koromogae

even for priests
and lay priests...
new summer robes


Tr. David Lanoue