Summer Robes (natsu goromo)

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Summer robes, summer clothing (natsugoromo)

***** Location: Japan
***** Season: Summer
***** Category: Humanity

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Explanation

At the beginning of summer it is time to
change the robes, koromogae 更衣 ころもがえ

In modern Japan, western clothing is becoming more and more common and the traditional Japanese robes, as described below, are not worn so much any more in the big cities. In the countryside, where I live, some are still quite common.
It used to be the first day of the fourth lunar month, but now it has come to be done on the first of June.


BTW
there is another time for koromogae in autumn, when summer robes are put away and the winter robes are coming out:

nochi no koromogae 後の更衣 (のちのころもがえ)
"the later changing of robes"
kigo for early winter
It was the first day of the tenth month, now often given as the first of october.


changing cloths for the winter season
. Warm things for Winter .

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white layered robe, shiragasane 白重, 白襲
..... white robe, shira-e, shira e 白衣（しらえ）

one layer of robes, hito-e, hito e 単衣 ひとえ

summer robes, natsuginu 夏衣（なつぎぬ）, natsugi 夏着（なつぎ）, natsumono夏物（なつもの）

hemp robes, asafuku 麻服（あさふく）
They are especially light and cool in summer, although nowadays, they are quite expensive.

light lined kimono, awase 袷 あわせ , natsu awase 初袷（はつあわせ）, suawase 素袷（すあわせ）, watanuki 綿抜（わたぬき）
old lined kimono, furuawase 古袷（ふるあわせ）


katabira 帷子 かたびら unlined (linen) kimono
shirokatabira 白帷子（しろかたびら）white linen kimono
somekatabira 染帷子（そめかたびら）dyed linen kimono
kibira 黄帷子（きびら）yellow linen kimono
ekatabira 絵帷子（えかたびら）lined kimono with patterns

tsujigahana, tsuji ga hana 辻が花（つじがはな)
. tsuji ga hana 辻が花 "flowers at the crossroads" dyeing method .
(haiku by Issa and Masaoka Shiki)



thin robes, thin kimono , usumono 羅 うすもの
usuginu 薄衣（うすぎぬ）, usugoromo 薄ごろも（うすごろも）
silk gauze, ro 絽（ろ）, sha 紗（しゃ）
"transparent robe", sukiya 透綾（すきや）
light cloth robe, joofu 上布（じょうふ）, ryoora 綾羅（りょうら）, keira 軽羅（けいら）、
. joofu 上布 ramie hemp cloth .


silk crepe, made in Akashi town (near Kobe)
akashi 明石（あかし）

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joofu 上布 finely woven summer cloth robes
Echigo joofu 越後上布（えちごじょうふ）from Echigo
. . . CLICK here for Photos !
Satsuma joofu 薩摩上布（さつまじょうふ） from Satsuma
. . . CLICK here for Photos !
. Yaeyama joofu 八重山上布 Yaeyama ramie hemp cloth .
Okinawa


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kinuno 生布 (きぬの) raw cloth (not washed after weaving)
made from various materials. It feels quite cool in summer.
kibira 生平（きびら）、kuzufu 葛布（くずふ）"kuzu cloth"
sayomi 貲布（さよみ）, tafu 太布（たふ）"heavy cloth"
saimi 細布（さいみ）、asabu 麻布（あさふ）"hemp cloth"
fujifu 藤布（ふじふ）wisteria cloth
kinuno 木布（きぬの） "tree cloth"

bashoofu 芭蕉布（ばしょうふ） "banana fiber cloth"
Basho-fu, bashofu is one of the representative textiles of Okinawa.
. . . CLICK here for Photos !


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light cotton robes, yukata 浴衣 ゆかた
Yukata is a Japanese summer garment. People wearing yukata are a common sight at fireworks displays, bon-odori festivals, and other summer events. The yukata is a casual form of kimono that is also frequently worn after bathing at traditional Japanese inns. Though their use is not limited to after-bath wear, yukata literally means bath(ing) clothes.
© More in the WIKIPEDIA !

first wearing of the summer yukata, hatsu yukata 初浴衣（はつゆかた）
indigo yukata, ai yukata 藍浴衣（あいゆかた）
starched yukata, nori yukata 糊浴衣（のりゆかた）
yukata for retn, kashi yukata 貸浴衣（かしゆかた）
old yukata, furuyukata 古浴衣（ふるゆかた）
cotton robe after a bath, yu katabira 湯帷子（ゆかたびら）
pole to hang a yukata, yukatagake 浴衣掛（ゆかたがけ）


©　Chöpa Imports, 2006 :Yukata Robe-Haiku

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bleached cloths, sarashi 晒布 さらし
Nara sarashi 奈良晒（ならざらし）
river for bleaching cloths, sarashigawa 晒川（さらしがわ）
time for bleaching cloths, sarashidoki 晒時（さらしどき）, sarashi 晒（さらし）
Click HERE for photos of Nara sarashi


shrinked cloths, chijimifu 縮布 ちぢみふ
chijimi 縮（ちぢみ）, shima chijimi 縞縮（しまちぢみ）
shrinked cotton, chijimimen 縮木綿（ちぢみもめん）
shrinked cloth robe for summer, chijimi katabira 縮帷子（ちぢみかたびら）
shrinked cloth from Echigo, Echigo chijimi 越後縮（えちごちぢみ）
shrinked cloth from Akashi, Akashi chijimi 明石縮（あかしちぢみ）

Click HERE for photos of shrinked cloth from Echigo

Click HERE for shrinked cloth from Akashi


. . . Summer sash (natsu obi, natsuobi, natsu-obi)


cotton flannel, neru ネル



neckband for summer, natsueri, natsu eri 夏襟 (なつえり)
This was used under a kimono and could be washed easily.
Sommerkragen, Kragen



haraate, hara ate 腹当 (はらあて) stomach [belly] wrapper
..... haragake 腹掛（はらがけ）
nebie shirazu 寝冷知らず（ねびえしらず）
This was used when sleeping to prevent getting cold with sweat, especially for children.


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越後屋に衣さく音や衣更
Echigoya ni kinu saku oto ya koromogae

at the Echigoya shop
the sound of cutting cloth -
changing the robes

Enomoto Kikaku Takarai 宝井其角


. Echigoya 越後屋 and Mitsui　三井 .

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short, light summer coat, natsubaori
夏羽織 (なつばおり )
one layer coat, hitoebaori 単羽織（ひとえばおり）
thin coat, usubaori 薄羽織（うすばおり）
hemp coat, asabaori 麻羽織（あさばおり）
silk gauze coat, robaori 絽羽織（ろばおり）


HAORI 羽織 is the general term for a coat worn over a Japanese kimono. In combinations it is often spelled ... baori.


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kihgoza 着茣蓙 (きござ) goza mat to wear
Often used by travellers of old to protect them from the sunshine.
Goza floor mats


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summer trouser-skirt, natsubakama 夏袴 (なつばかま)
silk gauze trouser-skirt, robakama 絽袴（ろばかま）
hemp trouser skirt, asabakama 麻袴（あさばかま）
Formal trouser-skirt (hakama) and Haiku

HAKAMA 袴 is the general term for a formal trouser-skirt worn over a Japanese kimono. In combinations it is often spelled ... bakama.


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light summer suit with short legs, jinbei
甚平 (じんべい), jinbee 甚兵衛（じんべえ）, jinbeじんべ



They are very comfortable and many men wear them after the nightly bath to sit outside and enjoy the evening cool. They are usually made of cotton or hemp.


きてもみよ甚兵が羽織花衣
kite mo miyo jinbei ga haori hanagoromo

(kite mo miyo : This is a double play with the meaning, come and see 来て, or come and wear 着て this jinbei when looking for cherry blossoms.)

come and look!
put on a Jinbei robe
and admire the blossoms
Tr. Makoto Ueda

Written in 寛文12年, Basho age 29, in Iga Ueno.


. Matsuo Basho 松尾芭蕉 - Archives of the WKD .

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half-long trousers, han zubon 半ズボン (はんずぼん)
short trousers, shooto pantsu, ショートパンツ
shorts, shootsu ショーツ


summer shirt, natsu shatsu 夏シャツ (なつしゃつ)
white shirt, shiro shatsu 白シャツ（しろしゃつ）
net shirt, ami shatsu 網シャツ（あみしゃつ）
crepe shirt, kureepu shatsu クレープシャツ


shirt with an open collar, kaikin shatsu
開襟シャツ (かいきんしゃつ)
open collar, kaikin 開襟（かいきん）


aloha shirt, aroha shatsu アロハシャツ (あろはしゃつ) PHOTOS !
aloha (shirt), aroha アロハ


summer dress, samaa doresu サマードレス
"sun dress", san doresu サンドレス
summer coat, samaa kooto サマーコート
summer wear, samaa wea サマーウェア

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white clothing, shirofuku 白服 しろふく
hakusoo 白装（はくそう）



white clothing with splashed patterns
shirogasuri 白絣 しろがすり. 白飛白（しろがすり）
"white material", shiroji 白地（しろじ）

KASURI 絣, ikat, splashed patterns (...gasuri) come in typical dyeing and weaving patterns of some areas of Japanese.
Ikat patterns and Daruma san


lace, reesu レース
making lace, reesu amu レース編む（れーすあむ）

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net-like under-kimono, ami juban
網襦袢 (あみじゅばん)
Kimono, Yukata, Nagajuban and more
着物、浴衣、長襦袢 with DARUMA patterns


juban, worn under a kimono


"sweat catcher", asetori 汗袗 (あせとり)
..... asetori 汗取（あせとり）

made from twisted paper, koyori juban
紙縒襦袢（こよりじゅばん）

made from gauze, gaaze juban ガーゼ襦袢（がーぜじゅばん）
made from a thin bamboo pipe, kuda juban 管襦袢（くだじゅばん）
bamboo under-garment, take juban 竹襦袢（たけじゅばん）

Bamboo Wife (chiku fujin)
.. a device to spend a hot night and other bamboo tools for summer

Woven bamboo under-garments are often worn by priests to protect the precious silk garments worn on official occasions.




loose underpants for men, suteteko, すててこ
Usually they go just over the knee, are made of thin cotton or gauze and can be washed easily.
Many farmers in our area wear them in the evening with no other cloths on top of them. They are extremely comfortable in the humid Japanese summer.


light underwear, appappa あっぱっぱ
"simple clothing", kantan fuku 簡単服 かんたんふく


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bathing suit, mizugi 水着（みずぎ）
"sea water suit", kaisui gi 海水着 (かいすいぎ)
"sea water hat", beach hat, kaisui boo
海水帽（かいすいぼう）



sangurasu サングラス sunglasses



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The mummy of the famous priest Kobo Daishi at the mountain monastery Koya San is also dressed twice a year.

changing of his robes, mi-koromogae 御衣替,
o-koromo-i　御衣井

Kukai Kobo Daishi and Kigo for Haiku



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Worldwide use


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Things found on the way



Photo curtesy of Terry Steudlein, May 2008

©　DIARIES OF
COURT LADIES OF OLD JAPAN


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Kimono Saijiki　着物歳時記 Kimono for all seasons



きもの歳時記
source : www.amazon.co.jp



A BLOG with seasonal hints:
きもの歳時記
source : mitu-naka


Notes for each month :
source : www.kimono-shop.co.jp


Textile Dyeing Patterns No 4
Kyoto Shoin (Author)
source : www.amazon.com/


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HAIKU




夏衣 いまだ虱を とりつくさず
natsugoromo imada shirami o tori tsukusazu

my summer robe
there are still some lice
I have not caught

Matsuo Basho
1685, End of fourth lunar month 貞亨2年4月下旬

Basho had just ended a very satisfying travel and was thus in a playful mood (karumi　軽み）.

Read more from Makoto Ueda and
source : Basho and His Interpreters


summer robes:
still some lice
I've yet to pick
Tr. Barnhill

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ひとつ脱てうしろにおひぬ衣かへ
一つ脱いで後に負ひぬ衣更
hitotsu nugite ushiro ni oinu koromogae

taking off one garment
I sling it over my shoulder
clothes changing day

Along the Nakasendo, 17. Sakamoto-shuku 坂本宿


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source :lucky2zacky.jugem.jp
yukatabira of the Heian period 平安時代の湯帷子
. . . yukata



紫陽花や帷子時の薄浅黄
ajisai ya katabira doki no usu-asagi

these hydrangeas -
time for a linen kimono
in light blue

MORE - Ajisai haiku by
. Matsuo Basho 松尾芭蕉 - Archives of the WKD .


. asagi あさぎ - 浅黄 - 浅葱 hues of light yellow, green and blue .


- - - - - - - - - -

いでや我よき布着たり蝉衣
ide ya ware yoki nuno kitari semi-goromo

come look at
the fine summer robe I wear -
my Semigoromo
Tr. Gabi Greve

Written in summer of 1687 貞亨4年夏
Sugiyama Sanpu had sent Basho a new katabira robe for summer and this was his thank-you hokku.



semigoromo 蝉衣 a very thin silk cloth for summer robes, as light as the wings of a cicada.
lit. "cicada robe".

This hokku has the cut marker YA in the middle of line 1.


MORE - hokku about the haori and natsu-baori coats by
. Matsuo Basho 松尾芭蕉 - Archives of the WKD .


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Issa about the changing of the robes

.更衣松風聞に出たりけり
koromogae matsu kaze kiki ni detari keri

new summer robes--
listening to the pine breeze
they emerge



更衣しばししらみを忘れたり
koromogae shibashi shirami o wasuretari

a new summer robe--
for a little while
no lice



痩藪も窓も月さすころもがへ
yase yabu mo mado mo tsuki sasu koromogae

in thin trees, in my window
bright moon...
new summer robes

Tr. David Lanoue
More haiku with : koromogae



Haiga by Nakamura Sakuo !

糊こはき帷子かぶる昼寝哉
nori kowaki katabira kaburu hirune kana

his starched summer
robe his blanket...
siesta

Katabira refers to a light summer garment made of hemp. The napper is either wearing the garment or using it as a cover. For my translation, I picked the latter. An alternate version: wearing his starched summer robe... siesta

David Lanoue


Festival Katabira


. Kobayashi Issa 小林一茶 in Edo .

西山や袷序の神だのみ
nishiyama ya awase tsuide no kami tanomi

western mountains --
going out in summer robes
they also pray to gods

This hokku is from early in the fifth lunar month (June) in 1814, about three weeks after Issa got married to his first wife Kiku in his hometown on 4/11. He seems to be remembering his time in Kyoto a few years earlier and imagining what stylish Kyoto people are doing now in early summer. Kyoto people dress more conservatively than than people in Edo and Osaka do, but they are generally more sensitive to traditional esthetics and styles. The imperial court in Kyoto now lacks real power, but it puts great emphasis on ritual, and it holds a major ceremony on the first of the fourth month, the first day of lunar summer and the day when people change from thick robes into lighter robes consisting of two thin layers of cloth. On 5/5 they will change again into still lighter single-layered summer robes, but for the moment people feel light and loose and celebrate the return of warm weather. Kyoto commoners also consider 4/1 a holiday and celebrate by going out for the day or by going around to exchange greetings and chat with their neighbors and friends.

Issa seems to be writing about one such group or family who are going around seeing people and sights wearing fresh early summer robes for the first time in many months. Issa has another hokku about visiting the low mountains just to the east of Kyoto, but in the present hokku people have decided to visit the low mountains along the western border of Kyoto, a largely wooded area in which many Shinto shrines are located. (There doesn't seem to be any overt mention of Buddhism here.) New leaves cover the trees, and people no doubt enjoy watching the summer fashions others are wearing, but at some point they have decided to visit a Shinto shrine in the foothills -- perhaps the big Matsunoo Shrine there. The word kami-danomi means asking various Shinto or shamanic gods for favors or protection as opposed to making a deep, emotional confession or plea to a god, so Issa seems to be indicating that the prayers the people make on their outing are not the goal of the outing but something convenient they do along the way. He doesn't seem to be satirizing them, however, just evoking the way many people pray. Perhaps he is suggesting that, in contrast to their utilitarian and self-centered requests to the gods, the way people walk and smile full of joy and lightness in their fresh summer robes makes them minor gods for the day, a day when both divinities and humans feel refreshed and changed.

The Issa scholar Maruyama Kazuhiko also feels that "western mountains" here refers to the low mountains along the western edge of Kyoto. See Issa Shichiban nikki 2.51. The geography of Kyoto was well known all over the country in much the same way that most Americans have a vague idea of where Central Park and the Statue of Liberty are, and the Kyoto court was also the center of clothes-changing festivities in Japan.
Tr. and comment : Chris Drake

. Kyoto 京都　"Hana no Miyako" 花の都 .

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The thin legs of Issa
(click on the photo to read the haiku and
enjoy the haiga by Sakuo Nakamura)

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痩脛の毛に微風あり衣更
yasezune no ke ni bifuu ari koromogae

the hair of my thin legs
moves in the light breeze -
changing of the robes

. Yosa Buson 与謝蕪村 in Edo .
MORE hokku about koromogae


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夏羽織 われをはなれて 飛ばんとす
natsubaori ware o hanarete toban to su

my summer coat -
it wants to leave me
and fly away

Masaoka Shiki 正岡 子規
Tr. Gabi Greve

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単衣着て 風よろこべば 風まとふ
hitoe kite kaze yorokobeba kaze matou

I wear a thin summer robe -
I enjoy the wind
I wear the wind

or

wearing a thin robe -
if the wind is pleased with it
I wear the wind

Nakamura Teijo 中村 汀女
Tr. Gabi Greve


dressed in a summer robe
the pleasant breeze
wraps me up

Tr. Keiko Izawa

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甚平着て 饅頭笠着て 土佐の人
jinbei kite manjugasa kite Tosa no hito

wearing a jinbei
wearing a round straw hat
a man from Tosa

or

I wear a jinbei
I wear a round straw hat
(like) a man from Tosa

Takahama Toshio 高浜 年尾
(Son of Takahama Kyoshi)


"Round straw hat like a rice dumpling", manjugasa

Tosa, a province in Shikoku

Tr. Gabi Greve


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Related words

***** Warm clothing and robes for Winter

***** Japanese Kimono and Haiku

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.SAIJIKI ... HUMANITY - Kigo for Summer 　



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